Elf/Sleep Hat Version 1
Notes before beginning:
This is the one to use if you like a more abrupt/noticeable change from tube to hat. It's also a thinner tube. Those are basically the only differences, but they're enough that I thought it warranted two different patterns.
- used Red Heart Super Savers in Delft Blue, Light Blue, and White
- used "H" Bates hook
- used size 18 tapestry needle for ends
- beginning stitch count determines tube width
Round 1: Magic Circle > chain 2, 10dc. connect with slip stitch to first dc made. close circle.
**I recommend weaving in end fairly early. Otherwise, you'll have a difficult time trying to secure it at the end since the tube is quite difficult to turn inside out.
Round 2 - 17: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. connect with slip stitch to first dc made.
Round 18: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc (12)
**You're doing 2dc increases evenly, if you like plainspeak.
Round 19: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc (14)
Round 20: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc (16)
Round 21: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, 2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc (18)
Round 22: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next two stitches. (2dc, dc, dc) around (24)
Round 23: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next three stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc) around (30)
Round 24: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next four stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc) around (36)
Round 25: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next five stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (42)
Round 26 - 29: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (42)
Round 30: chain 1, hdc in same stitch. hdc in each stitch around. (42)
Notes
* you can see in the picture that I used a different seaming method in the actual hat. for the record, I'm not a fan. I was experimenting to see if it would help keep my seam in one place. I either did it incorrectly OR it's just not my cup of tea.
Modifications
* when you get to the hat part, you can totally change any of it you want.
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Elf/Sleep Hat
-made with a 3-6 month head in mind
-used "H" Bates hook
-used Caron One Pounder in Black and Red Heart Super Saver in Real Teal
- your beginning stitch count will determine tube width
Notes before beginning:
This little guy is a bit tricky, but he's nothing too intimidating. This one differs from the one above in how evenly it flows from tube to hat and this one has an edge.
Round 1: Magic Circle > chain 2, 12 dc. connect with slip stitch to first dc made. close circle.
**I recommend weaving in end fairly early. Otherwise, you'll have a difficult time trying to secure it at the end since the tube is quite difficult to turn inside out.
Round 2 - 19: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (12)
Round 20: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next five stitches. 2dc. dc in next five stitches. (14)
**You're doing 2dc increases evenly, if you like plainspeak.
Round 21: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next six stitches. 2dc. dc in next six stitches. (16)
Round 22: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next seven stitches. 2dc. dc in next seven stitches. (18)
Round 23: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next two stitches. (2d, dc, dc) around. (24)
Round 24: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (24)
Round 25: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next three stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (30)
Round 26: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (30)
Round 27: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next four stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (36)
Round 28: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (36)
Round 29: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next five stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (42)
Round 30: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (42)
Round 31: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc in next six stitches. (2dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc, dc) around. (48)
Round 32 - 34: chain 2, dc in same stitch. dc in each stitch around. (48)
Round 35 - 37: chain 1, sc in same stitch. fpdc around next stitch. (sc, fpdc) around. (24sc, 24fpdc; 48 total stitches)
I can't really think of any notes or mods right now.
Elf/Sleep Hat Formula:
begin with desired tube width
when desired length, begin evenly increasing in small increments
when ready to start hat portion, find a number that easily divides
**I used 18 since it easily divides by 2,3,8, and 9
**24 would be good, too.
**I suggest at least 6 sets of increases. Otherwise, you'll get a boxy looking hat.
a good way to judge when hat is wide/large enough is to know how big your basic beanie tends to be. I know my kids' hats tend to be 48-54 stitches, so that's what I went with.
Squiggle Hat
- used Red Heart Super Saver Light Blue
- used "H" Bates hook
This is just a basic beanie with a weird bit at the beginning.
Before beginning hat, pull a length of yarn roughly an arm span long (hold end in one hand, pull until long enough to hold in other hand).
Make your beanie to your specifications. I haven't tried other patterns using this, but I assume you could use any pattern.
Squiggle: slide hook through any post of a stitch in the first round. catch end and pull up a loop. keeping tension fairly tight in the first few chains, chain desired length. If you want a number, I'd say 28. Starting in second back ridge from hook: 2sc, 2sc, sc toward hat. Use end to secure to hat. Weave in end as you normally would.
** ** Note: I just now washed this hat and would recommend going down a hook size or two and crocheting tightly if you want the squiggle to survive washing. If you're just using it as a prop (which is much more likely considering that it's a strangle hazard), I'd recommend washing by hand and washing the squiggle only when necessary.
Just so you know.
Softest Hard Hat
- used Red Heart Super Saver Yellow
- used Bernat Baby Yellow, held double
- used "H" Bates hook
Notes before beginning
* I've tried to find a way to write this in a typical way, but I just couldn't make it work
* I made up my own stitch abbreviation (I'm sure the stitch isn't new) but it sounds crazy complicated
fp2dcpuff is really insane looking, but it's easy
fp2dcpuff: a hybrid between a fpdc and a 2dcpuff. If you can make both of those, you can do this.
If you are really intimidated by it, simply substitute a regular fpdc. You'll get the same general look; your ridges just won't be as thick.
Round 1: Magic Circle > chain 2, 12dc. connect with slip stitch to first dc made. close circle.
Round 2: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. 2dc.2dc. dc, fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc, fp2dcpuff. 2dc. 2dc. 2dc. dc, fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc, fp2dcpuff. 2dc. connect with slip stitch to first dc made.
Round 3: chain 2, 2dc in same stitch. dc. 2dc. fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc. 2dc. fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc. 2dc. dc. 2dc. dc. 2dc. fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc. 2dc. fp2dcpuff. 2dc. dc. connect with slip stitch to first dc made.
Are you seeing how this works? It's just a basic beanie with a weird stitch as the last stitch in each set. That's all. If you really need the rest written out, message me or leave a comment. If you do until Round 3 and have ever made a basic beanie, I promise you'll probably get it.
Simply increase and then work down like you would a normal beanie.
The brim, beginning after last round connected:
Brim Round 1: chain 1, sc in same stitch. sc until you reach first post stitch. 2dc in each stitch until you reach the next post stitch. sc in remaining stitches around. connect with slip stitch to first sc made.
Brim Round 2: slip stich to first post stitch. sc in each dc. slip stitch in remaining stitches around.
Well, I know I have more patterns to document, but I'm afraid this is all I can handle today. I do hope they hold you over. If you have any questions at all, just let me know.
Thanks for visiting today! I hope you have a better day than you expected!
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